Tuesday, April 8, 2014

Welcome to the Jungle

The word “jungle,” which we tend to think of as an overgrown, untamed wilderness, is derived from Sanskrit. Before coming to Nepal, one of the greatest anxieties among my group of volunteers was the wildlife (scorpions, cobras, tarantulas, leeches, tigers, monkeys, etc.) that we would encounter. In Nepali, however, jungle literally just means “forest.” As I’ve been learning, sometimes the greatest nuisances are the least exotic of all.

I have been waging something of a war these past few months. Each time I think I’ve won, I find my efforts thwarted and back where I started. It’s been largely a quiet battle, the silence broken only by the occasional outburst of an expletive, which being in English goes unnoticed by my Nepali family. I’m talking about my struggle against household pests, namely flies, chickens, and one very pesky goat.

Our kitchen is inhabited by a large extended family of houseflies. The source of the sustenance that maintains their steadily growing population is unknown, but my host family says it’s the same way every year. They swarm around us, coat the walls, and fly around during our meals, provoking us to eat ever more quickly. Some also occupy my bedroom—as I write this post, one is buzzing around my head.

I really dislike flies. I much prefer mosquitos. True, in Nepal the mosquitos carry malaria and Japanese encephalitis, but that just makes it a high-stakes game. If you’re attentive you can kill in the time between when they land and when they pierce your skin. Flies only get under the skin in the figurative sense, with their buzzing, scuttling, and flitting. They are also more touch-and-go—you have to strike with speed and accuracy, correctly anticipating their trajectory as they take off. The back of my Nepali notebook is specked with blood from my success killing flies back in pre-service training (though my sudden assaults never failed to startle my classmates and interrupt our lesson). But that was just a handful each day; here, the challenge is quite overwhelming for a mere man and his notebook.

So you can understand why I was quite thrilled to find that the local market sold sticky traps (although I still don’t know what they’re called in Nepali. I refer to them as the “traps-that-when-flies-come-they-aren’t-able-to-leave-because-it-holds-them”). I bought a half dozen and the next morning placed one on the floor of the kitchen with a little milk and sugar. Here’s what it looked like two hours later.



We were fly-free for a few delightful days, but soon they were back in full force. Despite my family’s wishes, I can’t afford to supply us with a new trap every few days. I’ve thought about introducing spiders to control their population, but I’m afraid that would attract lizards to which would lead to snakes, and I detest snakes way more than flies. I saw my first live one (I’ve seen 8 or 9 dead ones) the other day—it was about 4 feet long and made me very nervous. For now I guess I’ll just tolerate them and try to keep them out of my buffalo milk.

The other, more infuriating annoyance has been the fight with my family’s goat and chickens over my garden. If you’ve read my earlier posts, you may remember how these roving scroungers destroyed my crops while I was at in-service training. I have since reinforced my mosquito net fence with additional wooden stakes, installed sheets of tin along another side and a half, and blocked off the rest with pieces of metal grating. It looks pretty ridiculous, but I’m going for function over fashion. I’ve also been covering the beds with straw after planting to protect the soil from evaporation—a practice that I think many Nepali farmers could benefit from.

But the animals occasionally find a way in. The chickens rake through straw with their feet in search of food, disturbing the soil and displacing the seeds. I came home the other day to the aftermath of a farm animal party—my potatoes had been uprooted, my bean plants decapitated, and the leaves of almost all my nasturtiums devoured. The goat, a cheeky little kid, has been the main problem. I finally asked my family to tie up our baby goat, but his mother freed him by chewing through the rope! The saga may never end.

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