Sunday, June 22, 2014

He's Leaving Home

On Sunday, I said goodbye to my closest Nepali friend. He, like my closest friend before him, is leaving the country to seek work outside Nepal. In my village, around a quarter of males over eighteen are currently living abroad. On average, half of a household’s annual income in my village comes from remittances. This relatively recent, rising trend is threatening the sanctity of the Nepali family and stifling the country’s potential development.

The traditional Nepali family is samyukta (joined), with several generations living in the same home or village. In rural areas, these familial ties create a strong sense of community that is readily apparent in times of joy (e.g. weddings, festivals), trial (illness, death) and many other aspects of daily life. Increasingly, however, families are breaking apart as the men leave home for work abroad.

For Nepalis, the holy grail of foreign countries is the United States. I’ve been asked dozens of times whether I might bring someone back to the states with me—some Nepalis have even offered to work for my family as servants. Each year, a few thousand Nepalis (such as my host sister) are awarded a direct visa through a lottery. Some Nepalis tell me of relatives who’ve entered the U.S. illegally through Mexico. With everyone knowing someone who has emigrated to America, many think that the U.S. is full of Nepalis. I can’t even count the number of times someone has encouraged me to continue speaking the language when I return to the states and encounter Nepalis on the street (as if it would be perfectly normal to start speaking a foreign language to a complete stranger). In addition, geographical knowledge tends to be pretty poor. My host family first told me that my host sisters live in New York; a few weeks later, they revised this to Michigan. In actuality, my sisters live in Texas. In addition, many people find it difficult to grasp the U.S.’s comparably enormous size and population (Nepal is the size of Tennessee and has a population of 30 million). Yesterday, for example, a man asked me if I had had ever met an American woman who had once been his English teacher. Only by giving travel times or distances do people (with widened eyes) realize the sheer immensity of the United States.

With the U.S.’s tight immigration policies, however, most Nepalis have to settle for going abroad elsewhere. Men who opt out will typically spend two or three years working in countries such as Qatar, United Arab Emirates, Malaysia, or India. For study, Australia and the United Kingdom are popular destinations.

The process to leave Nepal is often lengthy and expensive. Families may have to pay middlemen and bribe officials to obtain the requisite papers, forcing them to take out high-interest loans which, over time, will be repaid with a portion of the earnings from overseas. Those with formal schooling and technical skills may find decent white-collar work, but many find themselves in terrible conditions working in factories, construction, and other unskilled labor. The international news is replete with stories of Nepali men dying while working abroad. By American standards, the pay is poor (just a few thousand dollars a year), but for a Nepali family living on a less than $1000 a year, the benefits often outweigh the downsides.

Most men do earn a better income abroad, using the remittances to send their children to better schools. But without local career opportunities, I fear that in a fear years the thousands of Nepali children with remittance-funded educations will find themselves in the same place as their fathers—underemployed. They, too, will be forced to seek opportunities abroad. Furthermore, financial support from afar is not an adequate substitute for a father’s presence in the home. Then again, the paternal presence may not be missed, as many Nepali men play only a marginal role in their children’s upbringing. Indeed, the lack of positive male role models reinforces male entitlement and laziness that pervades village life. There are exceptions of course, but after graduating from high school many youth (particularly males) become little more than local loiterers. Seeing little to do in the village, they spend their days playing cards, drinking alcohol, and searching for a way out. For them, working abroad means travel, money, and something to do.


It saddens me to see people my age leaving Nepal, like rats abandoning a sinking ship. Certainly, a large cause of emigration is structural—there aren’t enough decent paying jobs in Nepal—but another is attitudinal. Many lament that the country is “naramro” (bad), blaming societal issues on government gridlock and corruption. While Nepal still has a ways to go politically, in my view the country is developing at a reasonable rate and has a bright future ahead. There is so much that these educated, progressive youths could do to hasten the process—as teachers, entrepreneurs, government officials, and even farmers. Those with creativity and motivation have an opportunity to make a successful life in Nepal—if only they can cast off the fatalism typical of generations past and take charge of their future. It will be considerably more difficult for Nepal to advance on the road of development so long as there is a slow, steady leak in the tires.

Read more below:

Wednesday, June 4, 2014

Back and Forth, Up and Down, Round and Around

I’ve been remiss at posting these last couple of months. On the one hand, I haven’t had the time to devote to recording my experiences and reflections. I’ve been relatively busy—building smokeless stoves at neighbors’ homes, delivering nutrition trainings to mothers and pregnant women, preparing to construct plastic houses with a few farmers before the monsoon rains arrive, and attending various community meetings and functions.

On the other hand, I find I have little to report. For one, my village is currently in a sort of high heat hibernation. Without air conditioning or electric fans, the dry, stagnant heat (over 100 degrees most days) is virtually inescapable—what else is there to do but sleep? At least, that’s the attitude of many villagers. Some days, I too find that I only have enough energy to sit at home and read.

In addition, living in a rural village in Nepal is becoming increasingly habitual. The initial, striking novelties of Nepali culture have largely faded, such that I find little surprising or remarkable from day to day. I suppose this is a good sign, as it indicates that I’m well integrated into Nepali society. But it also leaves me with little material to write about.

I’ve been away from my village for the past 16 days, during which time I’ve spent (no joke) 61 hours on buses. First I traveled to Kathmandu for a meeting of Peace Corps Nepal’s Peer Support and Diversity Network (PSDN), of which I am a newly minted member. We discussed our role as providers of emotional support to volunteers and had a great workshop on active listening. The meeting aside, it was nice to go out in the city and to eat something other than daal bhaat for a few days (think falafel, burritos, pasta, and pastries).






Working with women to build a cookstove that reduces smoke, cooking time, and fuel.




A "game" I play with mothers and pregnant women to test their knowledge of basic food groups. They typically don't do very well.

Next, we headed to Bhairawa (the second hottest city in Nepal, as everyone in my village informed me before I left) for a Peace Corps Project Design and Management training. On the way there, I tried to buy some lychee from a street seller, only to watch the guy run off with my 100 rupees. I bought another bag from another seller, but not before hearing several lectures from my fellow Nepali passengers about how to  conduct a transaction without getting robbed (this is the sort of Nepali “helpfulness” that I could do without). Unrelatedly, I got deathly ill just before we arrived in Bhairawa and spent much of the next two days between the bed and the bathroom. All told, I lost 5 pounds from what appeared to be an amoebic parasite, which a few pills made all better. Bhairawa proved to be an underwhelming city, although I did manage to find some dog food for my family’s dog Rocky, who (like me) has no choice but to eat daal bhaat twice a day.


Four days of project planning with our community counterparts proved useful but exhausting, and I think we were all ready to go when the conference came to a close. We did, however, get to view our welcome video to the future Group 201 volunteers (who are coming in just 3 months!). Now you too can meet all the lovely volunteers from Nepal Group 200 without even coming to Nepal. Props to Aerin for putting the whole thing together.

After the conference, 18 of us hopped a bus to Butwal to receive a training on Moringa trees. Also known as the “tree of life” and “miracle tree,” these fast-growing, native-to-Nepal plants pack a crazy nutritional punch. You can read more here, but in a nutshell they present an affordable and sustainable opportunity for combatting malnutrition worldwide. I’m looking forward to cultivating them in my village and encouraging families to do the same.







Then, for myself and another volunteer, it was back to Kathmandu and on to Mahjgaun, the village where we lived for three months during pre-service training. On the way, one of the bus's batteries exploded in a shower of sparks, delaying our arrival and causing us to arrive in the village as night was falling. It was incredible to see the new developments of the community (vastly improved roads flanked by manmade canals; new and refurbished homes of stone and concrete; a set of cement stairs leading up what was previously a very treacherous path to another volunteer’s house). One thing that hadn’t changed was the people—the community was so thrilled to see and talk with us. We had to decline countless invitations for tea and snacks from our welcoming neighbors. By the end of the day, we were dead tired from the constant conversation and glaring heat. Spending time with my host family was particularly satisfying and nostalgic for me. My niece is growing up to be a little rascal, or as we like to say in Nepali, “mateko bandar” (drunken monkey).






We stayed two nights in Mahjgaun before heading back to Kathmandu. I fell asleep briefly during the bus ride and awoke to find my Peace Corps-issued cell phone missing from my pocket. All signs pointed to it being stolen, which is ironic because that phone is cheaper than the cell phones that most Nepalis own. Thankfully, Peace Corps staff helped me purchase a new SIM with the same number, and I was able to replace the phone for about $20.

Now I’m sitting in a hotel in Butwal, listening to the new Coldplay album and poised to return to my site tomorrow. I’ve been gone a long time and feel ready to tackle my work with new energy—so long as the heat doesn’t drag me down. I’ve got a laundry list of plans for the coming months, many of which will falter or fail, but one or two of which might just exceed my expectations.


Also, I'd like to take a moment to thank all of you who've been reading what I put up here. My blog has gotten over 5,000 views in the past 9 months thanks to your curious fingers and eyes! To those of you who've written to me about it, it's been wonderful hearing your feedback. To those of you who read anonymously, I hope some of what I've read has broadened your worldview, or at least that you've been enjoying the stories. If you would like to hear about anything in particular about Nepal, Peace Corps, etc., leave a comment or send me a message.

Tuesday, May 13, 2014

Thoughts for Future Volunteers

It’s getting to be that time when anxious future volunteers (and their parents) scour the internet for information about the Peace Corps, Nepal, and both. If that sounds like you, hopefully you’ll find some of the following helpful.

Whether you are fully committed or having second thoughts, you must be wondering what your life will be like for the next twenty-seven months. There’s nothing anyone say that will adequately prepare you for this experience. Eight months in, I’m still adapting and adjusting. But you can learn from the experiences of others. Many of my fellow volunteers have posted their recommendations on their own blogs, like the other BenThis volunteer in Cambodia puts it really well too. I've also posted a few words of advice below.


Packing
Pack light. You can buy many things you might be missing once you get here, and for cheaper than in the states. Much of what you bring will become ruined or broken anyways. A few essentials that you won't find in Nepal and might be a pain to ship:
  • Laptop - for music, movies, work, communication. A tablet will not suffice.
  • External hard drive - to store all of the above, and share them with other volunteers
  • E-reader - most of us opt for the kindle. Or, if you'd rather go without, download a reader ap on your computer like I did
  • Camera – you can’t take too many pictures of this place
  • Quick-dry apparel - makes cleaning and drying much easier
  • Silica gel packs and ziplock bags - to protect your valuables from monsoon season
More about packing here.


Language
Just 50 words and phrases can make a big difference early on, so learn a little before coming. Peace Corps isn’t going drop you in the deep end right when you arrive, but before you know it you'll be sitting with your new host family that speaks virtually no English and feeling very awkward. Any head start will make that moment a little more comfortable. At the same time, remember that language is just a tool to make your life and work easier. Having the right attitude is much more important.


Other Volunteers
I found meeting my fellow volunteers to be like freshman year of college all over again—asking and answering the same questions over and over, searching for potential friends in a crowd of strangers, sharing the nervous exhilaration of a foreign experience. Give everyone in your group a chance—it might surprise you whom you grow close to. Resist the urge to compare yourself with other volunteers. You are all different. People join Peace Corps for all sorts of reasons, make all kinds of sacrifices to serve for two years, and have all sorts of difficulties along the way. Every one of them has something to offer you. You will come to rely on each other for technical knowledge, emotional support, comfort food, and much, much more. Far and away, they will be the best able to understand what you’re going through.


Cultural adjustment
You will be literally learning a new way of life—how to dress, eat, shower, poop, talk, dance, and more. Try to say no as little as possible—many of my best experiences have followed from spontaneous deviations from my daily plan. Get a little outside of your comfort zone, but stand up for yourself if something should cross the line. Be open-minded to new things and concepts, because those around you are probably less so. Some of the culture shock might hit you early on during the learning period, but if you're like me it may take five or six months for it to sink in.


Community integration
Join in the work (e.g. carrying water, washing dishes, cutting grass)—it will show your community that you’re willing to learn new things, don’t mind getting your hands dirty, and that you’re enthusiastic about working with them. Drink more tea than you’re physically comfortable with. Poke fun at yourself and laugh about it. Put up a little fight when prompted to dance, but always give in.

Everybody in your community will talk about you all the time. If you have diarrhea, everyone will know it. If you fell when you thought no one was watching, ten people will mention it the following day. At times, their scrutiny will seem like a curse, but it is also a blessing. Your endeavors and successes will spread just as fast as your blunders and failures, and they will linger even longer.

Ask for help when you need it—from your host family, other volunteers, or Peace Corps staff. People want you to succeed. Don’t worry if Nepalis think you’re clueless, because sometimes you will be. You simply have a different set of life skills, one tailored to a different way of life. Try to see this as a strength—after all, it’s your uniqueness that makes you a valuable asset to the community.


Attitude
Be as flexible as you can, without bending to your breaking point. For the next two years, you will be under constant pressure to adapt. Looking back, you will be amazed at how much you’ve gotten used to. On the other hand, some things may never get easier.

Your emotional rises and falls won't always be within your control. Sometimes it can feel a bit like floating aimlessles in the middle of the ocean. When you’re riding a crest, try to recognize and revel in it; when you're in a trough, remind yourself that you're bound to rise back up.

Take time to recharge when you need it. To be effective as a volunteer, you’ll probably need some time to do you, whether that means traveling, reading, dancing, or shutting yourself in your room from time to time.

When you start to take your life for granted, remember how lucky you are to be where you are.

And finally, see the beauty in the unknown that lies ahead.

Sunday, April 20, 2014

Lose Your Self

There is something exhilarating, illuminating, and even liberating about leaving all that you’ve ever known behind. Going off the map, getting away from the spheres of influence that have been shaping your identity up to the present, you discover and develop new sides of yourself. You begin feeling profoundly closer to humanity while learning to live like another person. But as you become more in touch with the rest of the world, you may find yourself drifting away from, well, yourself.

Initially, I was very eager to integrate into Nepali culture. During pre-service training, I asked my language and cultural facilitator dozens of questions to help me assimilate. I bought traditional Nepali clothing; I ate weird Nepali dishes; I drank tea whenever offered; at one point, I even tried to grow a Nepali mustache (because all the cool Nepalis are doing it). I tried to be mindful of my every move and action. As a stranger in a strange land, I tiptoed around to avoid upsetting the equilibrium of a conservative culture.

Over time, a few things happened. First, I realized that it’s impossible to be culturally appropriate all the time. Hell, in America I committed taboos all the time. Then, I discovered that I didn’t always want to blend in. How could show Nepalis what Americans are like while trying to act like a Nepali all the time? I’d be a worse than a wet noodle—I’d be a walking contradiction. Also, I take issue with a number of aspects of Nepali culture—attitudes toward Dalits, women, alcohol, marriage, etc. As if these first two realizations weren’t enough, eventually I came to terms with the fact that in trying to conform to Nepali culture, I was playing a role rather than being myself.

This pretending-to-be-someone-you’re-not manifests itself in everyday interactions. In any country they serve, Peace Corps volunteers get pretty accustomed to being asked the same questions over and over. With Nepali strangers, the interview usually includes the following questions:
  • Where are you from? Which do you like, America or Nepal?
  • How long have you been here? How long will you be here?
  • What work are you doing here?
  • Will you teach English?
  • Will you take me/my family/my baby back with you to America?
  • What do Americans eat? Which do you like, American or Nepali food?
  • Are you married? Will you marry a Nepali? Which do you like, American or Nepali girls?
  • Etc.
For a while, I answered these questions gladly and diplomatically. But repetition gets tedious. Over time, the dialogue grew so monotonous that I could sit through a conversation without paying attention, giving responses as automatically as if reading a script. I became a broken record, only, because the audience was different with each playing, nobody noticed. Like Bill Murray’s character in Groundhog Day, I’ve responded by making my responses more and more absurd with each repetition. Now, when people ask me if I can take them back to America, I tell them I think I have room for them in my bag, or that I’m allowed to take my wife back with me. So far, only one guy has expressed interest in that. Another volunteer, when asked where he’s going (another standard question, although when Nepalis ask it, they literally just inquire “whither?”), has begun responding with “your mom’s house.” I’m not quite there yet, but then he’s been here a year longer than me.

When the truth is offensive, the culturally appropriate answer ends up being a lie. For example, many people are curious as to whether Americans eat beef. Hindus revere cows; in Nepal, killing a cow is punishable with jail time. I used to dodge the question or minimize Americans’ beef-eating habits, but the reality is that that most Americans consume cow several times a week. That’s just the way it is. Our cultures are different, and Nepalis should be aware of that.

Those are largely superficial examples, but many of the compromises run deeper. You conform the way you talk, look, and act to meet peoples’ expectations and preferences. As the singular outsider in a fairly pushy society, the peer pressure can be tremendous. You do things you don’t want to in order to avoid offending others. When you’re under the constant heat of another culture’s magnifying glass, you start acting more like a character than a real person. And soon you start to feel like you’re losing your self.

Some of the time you catch yourself in moments of personal dissociation: participating unfazed in conversations in which your female companions are completely ignored; taking it for granted that women do all the household work; listening politely as your friend brands Dalits as irresponsible and lazy; standing idly by as your sister-in-law beats your nephew because he wouldn’t eat his snack. But most of the time you’re unconscious of the fact that you’ve habituated to things that were once shocking, upsetting, and unfair—that culture you’ve been absorbing molded you into a new person adapted to the environment in which you’re living.

But it’s a temporary acclimatization, not a permanent evolution. It just takes a little time away from village to return to stasis, to remember who you are. Because no matter how much you may feel like a Nepali, a single glance in the mirror is a reminder that you’re not. And even though Nepalis might not understand who you are, they know you’re not one of them. From the laptop to the quick-dry t-shirt, the bank account balance to the college degree—the evidence that you’re an outsider is everywhere. You may need to compromise some of your behaviors in order to assimilate, but you need to draw the line somewhere to ensure your self-preservation.

So, to remind yourself and those around you of your self-sovereignty, you rebel a little bit. Despite the reproaches of your family, you grow out your hair and beard because you feel like it. You don’t clean your room because let’s face it—you’re just not very neat. You enjoy the occasional drink without worrying what people might think. You stop apologizing for being the way you are, because you can’t very well be anyone else.