Socially,
professionally (if you could call what I’m doing an occupation), existentially,
and otherwise, things have been good these past few months. There are still
many moments that make me smile anew at the character of this country’s people.
Recently, these have included spontaneously receiving a bag of mangoes from a colleague
because he knows I’ve been struggling nutritionally; getting an unexpected call
from a close friend who’d moved abroad for work; my host nephew impulsively cleaning
my room every few days; a group of women pitching in to help each other build a new
stove in each of their homes; a man proudly showing me his rooftop garden; and school
children incessantly shouting “hi, Ben!” as I walk home from a long day.
Workwise, I’ve been
roughly the right amount of busy. I’ve been spending two days each week at my
village’s health center, delivering nutrition trainings for pregnant women and
mothers of young children. By improving the community’s knowledge of the
importance of proper nutrition among those most at risk, we hope to greatly reduce
the level of child malnutrition. In conjunction with the trainings, we’ve been
developing a nutrition center to provide information on and encourage positive changes in nutritional habits. We’re also working on improving the monitoring of child
development, both at the health center and in the community.
I’ve now built ten
smokeless cookstoves in my village and have been improving my skill and speed
with each replication. As an increasing number of households have seen the
benefits in the reduction of smoke, time, and firewood, more and more people
have been soliciting me to build one. I’ve even found a few individuals who
have seem seem interested in taking up cookstove construction as a part-time
occupation, after the rains and duties of monsoon season pass.
This woman is amazing. She helped me build four stoves for herself and her neighbors over the course of two days.
A few weeks ago,
while building a smokeless cookstove, I was bitten by this:
That’s a baby wild
boar, which some people here capture from the forest and raise to eat or sell.
This little guy was bothering me while I was mixing some mud, so I nudged him
aside with my foot. He squealed, charged, and sank his little teeth into my
ankle. I screamed (more from surprise than pain), Nepalis laughed, and he
scampered away.
While making
another cookstove, I put on some music to pass the time. After a few songs,
“Blurred Lines,” a racy pop song about either the unclear roles that females
have to navigate or rape (depending on whom you ask), came on. I got up to
change it (not that any of my Nepali companions would have understood the
lyrics), but noticed that the old man, toothless who’d been sitting in the corner
of the room was smiling and bopping away. Robin Thicke’s audience knows no
limits.
I’ve been spreading
awareness about the many amazing benefits of Moringa trees. This past week, I
was supposed to hold a training to distribute saplings but, not unsurprisingly,
nobody showed up. I ended up giving an informal training to the health center
staff, who were very impressed by the benefits. I gave many of them saplings to
plant in their own homes, and together we planted a few at the health center.
After these saplings grow into mature, fruiting trees, I’m hoping there will be
a big demand for Moringa trees next year.
This past month, I
worked with a small farmer to build a greenhouse with a bamboo frame and
plastic roof, the first in my community. This will allow him to grow vegetables
in the off-season, times when prices are high and nutritional variety is
otherwise low. We also installed a drip irrigation system, a small plastic tank and series of pipes with tiny holes
that deliver water directly to the base of the plant. Drip irrigation conserves
farmers’ time and water, ensuring that the plants receive just the right amount
of water each day. Already, many other farmers
have expressed interest in building their own plastic house in the coming
year. These relatively simple, cheap technologies have the potential to greatly
improve the production and availability of vegetables in rural communities.
I realize I haven’t
mentioned my garden in awhile. A few months back, I was so fed up with animals
destroying my garden that I hired two guys to construct a bamboo fence. Since
then, it’s been thriving. Right now I have tomatoes, bitter gourd, snake
gourd, okra, beans, and corn, as well as a small herb garden with basil and cilantro.
Before (top) and after (bottom) construction of the fence.
I’m also starting to do comparisons to demonstrate the efficacy of different
farming practices. With my host sister-in-law, I planted one row of corn using the
traditional Nepali method, and another using biointensive permagardening
techniques. So far, the difference is clear.
The corn planted biointensively (the back row) is considerably taller and fuller than the corn planted with the Nepali method (in the middle, behind the tomato plants).
Despite early challenges,
gardening is proving to be a fruitful hobby—both from the satisfaction I get
from growing something from seed to food, and the conversation it generates
among villagers. Presently, there is a complete lack of vegetables available in
my village, so the harvest from the garden is also keeping my family well nourished.
It’s also fruit
season in Dang. The other day we covered all of our pomegranates in plastic
bags to protect them from pests. I spent several hours one afternoon with my host
sister trying to knock down mangos by throwing sticks and stones at them. The
Asian pear tree in our backyard is laden with fruit, which make for a nice
snack when I’m feeling underfed. Since coming to Nepal, I’ve tried a bunch of new
fruits, including rose pear, jackfruit, pomelo, litchi, mulberry, gooseberry,
and several others whose names I don’t know in English.
The other day I was
cooking some American-style pasta when my family urgently called me outside
(tangentially, my family is always surprised when I eat anything for dinner
other than rice. It’s, like, not kosher). Just above the kitchen doorway,
coiled on the bamboo rafters, sat a six-foot long snake. Eventually it
slithered off the far end of the roof and into the garden below. Thankfully, my
family tells me he’s a “friendly snake” who will protect us by eating baby
cobras. I’ll feel much safer once the monsoon season is over.
Speaking of
monsoon, apparently a lot of the people in my village get drunk before they
head into the fields to plant rice, which, in my opinion, makes the deftness of
their work even more impressive.
For the past few
months, my computer’s been doing this weird thing where if I touch it while
it’s charging, it mildly electrocutes me. Interestingly, this doesn’t happen if
my feet aren’t touching the floor or walls, which leads me to believe that the
electricity must not be grounded. So I have to be careful.
Whether from my
chronic illness or steady diet of daal
bhaat, I’m pretty certain that my sweat has changed odors in the past few
months. I didn’t use to think I smelled bad, but now when I perspire I reek
something strange with a subtle hint of curry.
Yes, the constant sickness, rain, and isolation bring me down sometimes, but many things are going right. Okay, maybe not always “right” per se, but at least life is interesting.
Yes, the constant sickness, rain, and isolation bring me down sometimes, but many things are going right. Okay, maybe not always “right” per se, but at least life is interesting.
Hang in there Ben! I really like reading your blog...thanks for sharing your stories. The pictures are beautiful and your story is inspiring. I look forward to being there next month :) Cheers
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