Body Politics in Nepal

A rigid conservatism still pervades many rural Nepalis’ conceptions about appearance. It’s apparent in the way they talk about Americans, neighbors, and even their own family members, and it’s been a source of stress for many of the volunteers here.

It’s difficult (and often problematic) enough to generalize about the appearance of any society, but this is especially true in Nepal, which is home to 102 castes and ethnic groups. There are Nepalis who look Indian, others more Mongolian, and others a bit Chinese. The discrepancy is such that it’s often possible to guess one’s ethnic group based solely on one’s appearance. If I had to paint a broad description of Nepalis, I’d say that they tend to be a little shorter than the average American, with brown skin, black hair, and dark brown eyes. Men keep their hair short; women wear theirs long. Women typically wear gold jewelry in their noses and ears, pendants around their necks, and bangles on their wrists.

Nepalis’ ideal of beauty contrasts with American preferences in a few notable ways. For instance, being a little bit moto (fat) is considered desirable in Nepal. For instance, some affectionately address my host sister as “moti,” which essentially means “fatty.” My family and friends have sometimes expressed dismay that I’ve lost weight since my arrival; on the other hand, the female volunteers who have gained weight from the high-carb diet are a subject of pride and praise in their villages. Overall, Nepalis are pretty accepting of most body sizes and shapes.

In contrast, Nepalis have a strong and pervasive liking of lighter skin that smacks of racism. Nepalis have a general tendency to dichotomize, asking weighted “either-or” questions and characterizing people, places, and things as either good or bad. I’ve heard mothers scorn their own daughters as ugly just because their skin is a bit darker than their own. Even my fairly progressive sister-in-law has declared, “Black skin is not good.” While many Americans flock to beaches and salons to acquire a tan, the stores here sell lotions that will lighten your skin a few shades. The grass, it seems, is always greener.

Most Americans probably cannot conjure up an image of a typical Nepali, but many Nepalis have a fixed preconception about how Americans look. They expect us to be tall, white-skinned, and light-eyed, and they are often disappointed. Almost every volunteer has experienced some pressure or criticism regarding our appearance, ranging from acne to ashy skin. Girls with short hair have been encouraged to grow their hair out. Family members, neighbors, and barbers have repeatedly urged me to dye my hair black.

Of my group, five volunteers have had particularly unique experiences in Nepal due to their ethnicity. Three of them (the Asian Americans) are frequently mistaken for Nepali nationals. They can blend right into a crowd of Nepalis. Strangers may assume they speak the language fluently, and some even find it hard to believe that they’re Asian American rather than Chinese, Korean, etc. Similarly, my two black friends are frequently presumed to be African. Because of their dark skin, Not being in their shoes, I'll never be privy to just how all of our experiences differ, but it’s clear that each of us is treated differently based on how we look.