In a departure from
my usual attempt to be systematic and thematic, the following is a random
collection of some of the more hilarious, exciting, fortuitous, strange, and
memorable highlights from my first month and a half in Dang:
-Visiting the
boarding school for the first time, I asked a group of men for directions. An extremely
drunk man staggered up to me, pulled me close, and kissed me on the cheek.
He was so grateful that I was there, he said, that he would be my guide for the
rest of the day. He wouldn’t take no for an answer, so we visited each
classroom of the school together: I briefly introducing myself and explaining
my role in the community; he commanding the children to “stand up”, “say thank
you”, and “try again” (all said in English). Oddly, the teachers did nothing
about this inebriated man berating their students. For the next two hours, this man physically dragged me along, his hand often painfully clutching
mine, and forced me to drink cup after cup of warm milk. Eventually he asked that
I teach him English so that he could go to America and work as a servant for my family. One of the hospital staff later
told me he could visibly see how fed up I was by the whole encounter
-Celebrated a wedding in my village, with much singing, dancing, drinking and eating
-Celebrated a wedding in my village, with much singing, dancing, drinking and eating
-Spent nearly two
hours making a beautiful community map
with the 7th graders at the boarding school
-Attended the 7th
graders’ Nepali language and culture class, and was totally lost the entire time
-Began regularly playing volleyball with the only girls’
volleyball team in the district, which happens to practice ten minutes from my
house
-Clarified the definition of the word “virgin” to
the volleyball coach, who thought it meant “unmarried woman”
-Made friends with a guy my age who’s
moving to New York next year
-Wandered into the forest one morning with a few guys to cut down trees to decorate a shrine for a pujaa
-Wandered into the forest one morning with a few guys to cut down trees to decorate a shrine for a pujaa
-Watched and
translated an evangelical Christian television program with some coworkers
-Watched (almost in
slow-motion) a bundle of sticks fall off the roof of a bus and clobber a woman in the head. She walked away apparently unscathed
-Got a hands-on training from a local beekeeper, which included my removing frames full of bees from a swarming hive
-Got a hands-on training from a local beekeeper, which included my removing frames full of bees from a swarming hive
-Shared a taxi seat with a very talkative elderly life insurance salesman, who now visits my health center every week requesting that I teach him beekeeping and pushing life insurance plans on the health center staff. The other day, he called me at 5:21 in the morning (I just let it ring)
-Observed a man
having his stitches removed after a vasectomy,
while the health worker’s five-year old son sat nearby chewing on a cardboard
box
-Facilitated my
first nutrition training with nine pregnant mothers, and saw their understanding transform right before my
eyes. This might be have been my most gratifying experience yet
-Sat in on the
counseling session of a man with a penchant
for destroying Hindu temples. A few days later, happened to ride in a taxi
with him
-In this same taxi,
shared the driver’s seat of a
crowded taxi with the driver, who had to reach over my legs to shift gears. If
that wasn’t unsettling enough, when he wasn’t searching for the gear stick, the
baby sitting on my other side (the temple-destroyer’s child) was constantly
pulling on it. He later peed on me (the baby, not the driver)
-Declined, as
politely as possible, boxing lessons
from an aggressive Nepali guy
-Met a Nepali man
who lived in Israel for four years
and now owns a clothing store in Nepalgunj
-Had tea with an
Indian guy who, following a messy divorce with his wife, moved to Nepal with
his son to work in development
-Stumbled upon a group of dancing Tharu women who were stopping vehicles in the road and demanding that they pay in order to pass
-Stumbled upon a group of dancing Tharu women who were stopping vehicles in the road and demanding that they pay in order to pass
-Explained to a
Nepali woman why exporting rhinoceros
and elephant horns back to friends in the U.S. is a bad idea (on oh so many
levels)
-Did my laundry and
bathed in a stream. Walking back,
dropped the washbasin and had to wash half my clothes again
-Developed some pretty impressive blisters on my hands,
which has become the talk of the town, from digging my garden. Eating hot,
spicy food when you have open wounds on your hands is quite painful
-Cut down a forty-foot-tall bamboo stalk to make my
nursery
-Planted cucumbers with my twelve-year
old neighbor, while we took turns singing Nepali and English songs
-Taught my neighbor
and five-year old nephew the “Cotton Eye Joe”
-Met a young Nepali
guy living in my village who studied business in London and is just starting a small-scale goat farming operation
-Found a fish swimming in the water I use to clean
my toothbrush and wash my face
-Danced barefoot in the straw in the
dark with a drunk uncle during a massive puja
celebration
-Got a puppy! My family gave me the honor of naming him, but after I chose the name Coco (which means “who” in Nepali), they renamed him Rocky. He looks like a miniature badger
-Got a puppy! My family gave me the honor of naming him, but after I chose the name Coco (which means “who” in Nepali), they renamed him Rocky. He looks like a miniature badger
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