Pahilo din ra rosro din (first and second day)

We’ve been very busy since our arrival in Nepal yesterday afternoon. After a cushy flight on Thai Air (including a great in-flight meal and more free alcohol than anyone could possibly need), we began our descent through the clouds to the Nepali Airport, which the history channel has rated the world’s most dangerous airport (in terms of landing). The view of the mountains from the plane window was breathtaking. On the ground, we received a very nice reception from a number of Peace Corps staff, as well as the U.S. Ambassador to Nepal. A twenty-minute bus ride brought us to our hostel in Bahktapur, the site of initial orientation (IO), our first five days of pre-service training (PST). The Peace Corps has an obsession with acronyms, and we are already swimming in alphabet soup. At the hostel, we were greeted with tika (red a signifying respect). After unpacking, we began our training with introductions to the staff and schedule. Dinner that night was absolutely miTho (delicious), complete with dhal baat (the traditional rice and lentil dish of Nepal), naan, vegetable curry, salad, and spicy chutney. Traveling as a vegetarian was difficult (none of the airlines seemed to have meatless meals), but the Nepalese eat little meat and seem to be very understanding. Our cook even makes a small vegetarian dish and delivers it to our group’s three vegetarians every meal!

Our backyard in Bahktapur

The next morning, we all awoke between 4 and 6 AM to a cacophony roosters, dogs, and music. Our second day (rosro din) was packed with informational sessions. I’ll try only to share most interesting bits of these sessions, as they will be long and many over the next eleven weeks. We also received a few of the many immunizations required for Peace Corps service.

Before dinner, a number of us traveled out of the hostel with Daulat-ji (our Training Manager) and Chakra-ji (our Training Coordinator) to see the town and buy supplies. Our backyard here has both a badminton and volleyball net, so I purchased a volleyball for 600 Nepali rupees (a little less than 6 USD). On the way back, we stopped at the local Hindu temple, where Daulat-ji introduced us to some of the Hindu gods and rituals.

View of sunset from the road

Here are a few interesting cultural/lifestyle notes from the past two days:

Eating:

Nepalis may eat sitting at tables or on the ground. Females typically prepare and serve the meal, eating only after the men and any guests have finished. Nepalis don’t use silverware; instead, they gather a small ball of food in their fingers and push the food into their mouths using their thumb. This technique is actually easier than it sounds, and most of us are already fairly comfortable with eating with our hands. Nepalis also eat very quickly, so I feel right at home.

In addition, certain practices are considered juTho (taboo). Eating with one’s left hand, sharing food that one has already tasted, and sharing drinks that have touched one’s lips can be offensive. Giving or receiving items with one’s left hand; facing the soles of one’s feet towards another, overstepping things of value, and certain public, physical contact with one of the opposite sex (e.g. hugs) are also considered juTho.

Festivals:

The next month is full of festivals. For example, yesterday was Teej, the women’s festival. All women wear red and travel to the temple to pray to Parvati, the wife of Shiva. The married women pray for their husbands, and the unmarried ones pray for a good husband. Nepalis celebrate the festivals with raski, a homemade alcohol typically distilled from rice or corn. We have been advised not to drink raski due to the potential for impurities in the water used in distillation, in addition to the typical dangers associated with drinking unregulated moonshine.

Women entering a temple during Teej

Daulat-ji introduces us to some of the Hindu gods

Utilities:

During initial orientation, we have running water, electricity, and wireless internet. Our power goes off at 10 at night, but also at odd times throughout the day. Most of Nepal’s electricity is hydroelectric, so during the monsoon season power tends to be pretty reliable.

Toilets:

This has been an adventure, and what we heard about the old Peace Corps holds true. Nepali toilets are essentially holes in the ground, and they don’t use toilet paper. Relieving oneself requires squatting, and a bucket of water and one’s left hand are used for cleaning (instructional video here). As a result, the left hand is considered unclean and is almost never used in day-to-day life. Squat toilets are more of an effort, but really aren't so bad.

Chakra-ji gives us a defecation demonstration

Group learning about squat toilets